Feliz Pascua!

Today I write this blog heart-warmed by the small town of Padcaya, Tarija and saddened to have to say goodbye to it.  I only spent 3 days there, but they were 3 days that I won’t forget.

The adventure to Padcaya actually started last Tuesday, 3 days before we arrived there, when my host mom offered to let me go to Padcaya, accompanied by a friend so that I wouldn’t travel alone.  I did not even hesitate before saying yes and inviting my friend, Bryce, on this last-minute adventure.  That night I scrambled to pack my clothes, run my errands and say my goodbyes before waking up at 7am the next day to buy the tickets. 

To add to the chaos, the bus that I bought tickets for was the ONLY bus going to the department of Tarija all weekend due to blockades of protestors.  This bus said that it would take a 5hr detour that went through Paraguay to avoid the blockades, but it didn’t.  About 10 hours into the trip (that should’ve been 25hrs long), the bus was stopped and the passengers were told to get off because there was a blockade.  Turns out the bus driver went ahead and drove the main, blockaded route for supposed storms along the detour and wanted us to wait out the blockade for an extra day or two.  For a couple hours the passengers discussed what to do, while some walked through the blockade to find additional transportation since this bus driver was not willing to do anything else.  Luckily, my older sister and her boyfriend had also come on the trip and went to see how dangerous the blockade was once the sun rose.  When they got there all of the protestors had left and it was fine to walk through.  So the 4 of us, and a new friend we met, crossed the blockade to search for transportation.  However, by this time the buses and vehicles on that side had already boarded new passengers and left for Tarija.  By stopping motorcycles and cars that passed by we eventually found out that the closest town was more than 20km away and not many troofis (taxis) were coming our way.  One gentleman was kind enough to give my sister a ride back towards the blockade to ask for a troofi. Soon enough, she was back and the 5 of us crammed in with a family of 3.  7 hours later, we arrived in Tarija. 

Tarija is like the Napa Valley of Bolivia.  Known for its wine, this department is full of vineyards.  And since it is fall here in Bolivia, it was especially gorgeous with the ripe grapes and leaves getting ready to change color.  That evening, at my abuela’s house in the city of Tarija, we all snacked on grapes from the vines that shaded the patio along with cheese and decided to spend the night there before taking off for the family’s town of Patcaya an hour away.  While there we enjoyed some tarijan street food, celebrated Bryce’s acceptance into UC Berkley and admired the city from a large wine glass.

The valley of the department of Tarija

The beautiful wine glass and its' view of the city

Me and Bryce in the main plaza the next day

The next day we explored the main plaza of Tarija and then took off for Padcaya.  We arrived in Padcaya just in time for lunch with about 20 of my relatives.  First we had soup, and then some delicious river fish, potatoes, corn and vegetables.  After eating that (and the seconds that my Abuela insisted I eat) my Tia took us out for some coffee and empenadas to warm up.  Soooo much food! That night I was absolutely stuffed, and my body was completely warmed up for the procession that the little town put on.  14 houses spread out through the town were decorated with marigolds and paintings, to represent the 14 different times Jesus fell and got back up.  Everybody in the town followed this route while singing, and stopping at each station until it lead us back to the church in the main plaza.  Some people continued to walk that route all night until the 5am mass.  I went back to the house to visit with the relatives that were there.

Too good to say no

Station #13 put on in by my family

On Saturday the whole family slept in.  There were plans to go to the mass but I didn’t get up until 9, when most people were still asleep.  Instead Bryce and I enjoyed some hot coffee with a couple of tios, one of which later took us hiking up to the family’s favorite waterfall and the sentimental “Piedra Grande” which had a view of the valley.  The water in the waterfall was the clearest I have ever seen. My tios used to always bathe in it and drink out of it it was so clear.  I wanted to do the same, but it was too cold for that.  After that day’s big lunch a family friend took me, Bryce, Laura and Juan Mario to another town nearby to explore.  The winding road there with the fog rolling in over the mountains and the cute, abandoned houses alongside of it reminded me of Hwy 1, except there was no ocean L .  That night we met a bunch of people our age for a churrasco, and then at midnight much of the town met at my tio’s house to surprise my tia for her birthday.

Secret waterful -- usually much fuller

all the old graffiti from "La Piedra Grande"

the view from on top of "La Piedra Grande"

Abandoned Plaza connected to a gorgeous church

The next morning, Easter Morning, the whole town gathered at the church for mass. We did another walk with stations, this one only going around the main plaza.  Afterwards everyone split up and began preparing for the kermesse.  The kermesse was a festival put on by the church in the main plaza, where everyone ate lunch, danced to live music and visited with friends and family.  Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay there for very long though.  The blockade was down for Easter Sunday and would go back up by Monday morning, thus we had to go before being trapped in Tarija. 

Watching the town set up from the bell tower window

By this time I had already gotten to know many family members very well whether it be over coffee in the morning, or hooking arms with them for the processions, or celebrating with them at night.  Each person was especially friendly and inviting to us; it felt like I had known them forever.  When it was time to go, each one of my abuelos/tios gave me a big hug, life advice, and sweets for the road before wishing me a good life.  Some even started to cry.  I swear, some of the most beautiful people and places are the hidden ones.  I hope I can return one day.